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Pulling a 3AJ alternator rotor Pulling a 3AJ alternator rotor
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Yamaha Tech Originally the Yamaha XT600 Tech Forum, due to demand it now includes all Yamaha's technical / mechanical / repair / preparation questions.
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  #1  
Old 22 Mar 2004
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Pulling a 3AJ alternator rotor
Anyone with experience pulling an alternator rotor off a 3AJ engine?

This is the electric start that has three hex-cap bolts going through the rotor and (presumably) into the alu spacer behind it.

Do you have to remove these three allen/hex bolts before pulling the rotor?

I have the nut off and have installed a suitable puller into the three M10 threaded holes, however it won't budge even with not-so-gentle taps on the main puller bolt that presses onto the end of the crank.

Help?



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Barry
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  #2  
Old 22 Mar 2004
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No need to take out the 3 Allen bolts.
Just for insurance, put back the nut on the crank to protect a bit the threaded part.
Then, put tension on the rotor by screwing in the central puller bolt.
Then hit the central bolt HARD with fi a leaden hammer.
Repeat as required, there might be some damage to the thread on the crank but it is the only way .....

Auke
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  #3  
Old 23 Mar 2004
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I took the flywheel off my 660 last night. Just don't have mercy with the tools when tightening the central puller bolt. And make sure that you apply some Secret Agent WD-40 to the thread and the head mating surface. Then hit the thing!

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  #4  
Old 14 Feb 2006
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Hi,

What size is the required flywheel puller for the 3AJ?

Taco
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  #5  
Old 14 Feb 2006
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It's a special tool. Can for instance be bought from kedo.com.

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  #6  
Old 14 Feb 2006
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You can use a standard puller too - just find one that fits.

I still haven't managed to get my flywheel off!



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  #7  
Old 15 Feb 2006
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I still haven't managed to get my flywheel off!

Hit it one GOOD CLOUT! make sure your puller is dead square on the flywheel & good,n tight!

AKE SURE[/B][/QUOTE]

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Old 9 Sep 2006
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Im having the same problem... What kind of puller do i need ? Iv only got the ones which thread into the centre on conventional one.. it doesnt seem to work on this !!

<a href="http://imageshack.us"><img src="http://img400.imageshack.us/img400/8545/rotor010largekeygh2.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosted by ImageShack.us" /></a>
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Last edited by *Touring Ted*; 9 Sep 2006 at 19:02.
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  #9  
Old 14 Sep 2006
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Rotor 3aj
Hello,

Sorry but.. avoid hitting the crank with a hammer, it's really not good for the
bearings, they are allready the 3AJ's weakpoint on the rotor side.
Undecompressed cylinder, heavy rotor and heavy torque from starter engine makes them spin in case or on crank, at 100 000 K's crank can be demetalised enough that a new bearing won't fit.
The solution is to glue them with permanent lochtite.
Bearing don't like side forces, rotor will go off but the bearing might be nasty hit.
Try finding an inerty extractor and fasten it in the three holes, it hits also, but in the right direction !
Or build one, shouldn't be to difficult, three screws,one axle and a big weight
moving around the axle, hitting its end like a hammer when pulled out.
Or use a solid extractor and screw it out with WD40 and patience.


Matt
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  #10  
Old 14 Sep 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt595
Hello,

Sorry but.. avoid hitting the crank with a hammer, it's really not good for the
bearings, they are allready the 3AJ's weakpoint on the rotor side.
Undecompressed cylinder, heavy rotor and heavy torque from starter engine makes them spin in case or on crank, at 100 000 K's crank can be demetalised enough that a new bearing won't fit.
The solution is to glue them with permanent lochtite.
Bearing don't like side forces, rotor will go off but the bearing might be nasty hit.
Try finding an inerty extractor and fasten it in the three holes, it hits also, but in the right direction !
Or build one, shouldn't be to difficult, three screws,one axle and a big weight
moving around the axle, hitting its end like a hammer when pulled out.
Or use a solid extractor and screw it out with WD40 and patience.


Matt
I agree. I for one will not be hitting it with a hammer. Iv purchased a proper puller for the bike. Basically a 10mm disc with 3 cut outs for the pulling points and a centre thread which a large bolt goes through and forces teh disc back and with it , the rotor.

Once i have it delivered and im happy with it, im going to make some copies and sell them on ebay for £10. 1/3 price Iv paid for mine.
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  #11  
Old 14 Sep 2006
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Smile 3aj Rotor
Hello,

As you say its only a disc and four screws..
By the way.. I do have the drawings for the tool and could send them to you.
They are also available on the site of the french ténéré club, though you'll have to find the adress by yourself, cause I have forgotten it since, maybe with the help of a search engine, try yahoo.fr.


Matt
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  #12  
Old 14 Sep 2006
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I have that puller
But you still need the hammer to shock the flywheel sufficiently ..... I hope you ar lucky.

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  #13  
Old 15 Sep 2006
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Rotor
Maybe if you do like Fred says, you put WD40 everywhere, then you take the tool in the evening, screw it as tight as possible, so the thing is under tention.
Go to sleep and maybe in the morning it will go off if you continue screwing.
Miracles can happend.

Matt
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  #14  
Old 15 Sep 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aukeboss
But you still need the hammer to shock the flywheel sufficiently ..... I hope you ar lucky.

Auke
Iv not needed one on any other bike... Hammers and rotors dont mix well usually

Ill let you know when the took arrives.
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  #15  
Old 18 Sep 2006
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Hi folks,

Just bought a 91 XTZ660, afetr a week a rattling noise apeared, so after checking this forum (many thanks by the way) i checked the cam chain adjuster (removing the spring first) and found it has bee pushed out to its maximum!!!!!!!!

Don't realy fancy taking the engine out, so i've ordered a new chain (from Yamaha) and 2 new guides, and tonight i'm going in and try to figure out how to take the flywheel off without causing more damage

I'll take some pics and try to post them as its going on, just don't laugh at the bleeding nuckles
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