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Yamaha Tech Originally the Yamaha XT600 Tech Forum, due to demand it now includes all Yamaha's technical / mechanical / repair / preparation questions.
Photo by Alessio Corradini, on the Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia, of two locals

I haven't been everywhere...
but it's on my list!


Photo by Alessio Corradini,
on the Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia,
of two locals



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  #61  
Old 2 May 2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by awolxt View Post
Will that pin clean enough and undamaged for re-use do you reckon?
No problem, ill give it some rust threatment now.

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  #62  
Old 2 May 2017
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Nice one
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  #63  
Old 2 May 2017
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Checked the one on bike and its a couple of years since i greased the pin, it was ok. Use MoS2 grease, imoprtan that the boot is in groove on booth side. I quess maybe some boots come of the groove and water comes in, specially when you have new pads and boot is stretch.
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  #64  
Old 3 May 2017
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I'm not sure about bikes, but most automotive brake systems use rubber components made from EPDM rubber, including caliper piston seals, dust boots, caliper slide boots, etc.
EPDM rubber is not compatible with your common mineral(petro) based grease or oils. They cause the rubber to swell. Seen on this link EPDM Chemical Compatibility Results
You must use either Rubber Grease which is castor based, or a synthetic grease compatible with EPDM rubber.
You can buy specific caliper slide synthetic grease, otherwise just use rubber grease.
If the caliper slide boots swell, they then can't keep the water out, then the rust starts.

Bob
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  #65  
Old 3 May 2017
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Hi Bobmech!

I knew about using the correct grease on the caliper seals and i bought some specifically to use when i rebuilt the calipers. Never entered my head to use it on the sliding pins etc because of the boots. The tub i bought was only.small so i used it only on the stuff i thought i needed to...thanks for the heads up!

Bill
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  #66  
Old 3 May 2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by awolxt View Post
Hi Bobmech!

I knew about using the correct grease on the caliper seals and i bought some specifically to use when i rebuilt the calipers. Never entered my head to use it on the sliding pins etc because of the boots. The tub i bought was only.small so i used it only on the stuff i thought i needed to...thanks for the heads up!

Bill
Dont worry Awolxt, if you can use the grease on the seals its ok for the boot. Anyway whats importan is that you have a layer around where the pin enter caliper, prevent water/dirt coming in. Need to handle heat or it gums up. THe boot is avaible for phurcase, the is not..

BTW bergspre did you follow my steps and got it off?
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  #67  
Old 10 May 2017
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Dont worry Awolxt, if you can use the grease on the seals its ok for the boot. Anyway whats importan is that you have a layer around where the pin enter caliper, prevent water/dirt coming in. Need to handle heat or it gums up. THe boot is avaible for phurcase, the is not..

BTW bergspre did you follow my steps and got it off?
Haven't had the chance to do more yet. But, very nice pictures and I now understand how that pin works. When you said it turns on the threads, I understand thats whats happening with mine too since I can see on the backside of the caliper the end of the pin that it moves/turns when the caliper turns. And thats ofcourse why its not rotating up to 90 degrees because what your really doing is screwing the pin in more and pusing the threads.

Are you sure you used a 9mm bore to drill a hole? isnt that big?
I wonder what would happen if I put the thing in a ultrasonic cleaner.. ive been thinking about getting one on ebay.

Gonna try your steps soon.
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  #68  
Old 10 May 2017
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Yes its ok with 9mm, you will have some room for the hex key and get all dirt and metal out from drilling. What i did after is to take a piece of hard paper and press against the hole from inside, then you can use epoxy/JB weld or what ever you want to seal up. A little paint outside and its like new! Dont waste more time on this, follow my steps and its done in 30min.

This one is good for hammering all the way, you can start with a shorter. https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Magnet.../dp/B005NY5ASU

This one i think will be best for hammering power. http://www.ultimategarage.com/shop/p...oducts_id=2547

And i also recomend removing the bolt holding swing arm, same shit if you dont lubricate. Had to use a sledge hammer to remove it and i see others have serious problems getting it out. Worst case scenario is cutting the swing arm to remove it. On my 3tb its possible to lubricate with nipple, 4pt there is nothing. Why they removed them i dont understand, maybe the lubrication from nipple was not good enough and its better removing bolt. Be carefull with bolt its expensive, have nut on so you dont hammer the threads in the beginning. But dont hit the nut, screw it in so you hit the bolt.
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  #69  
Old 14 May 2017
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Originally Posted by xtrock View Post
Yes its ok with 9mm, you will have some room for the hex key and get all dirt and metal out from drilling. What i did after is to take a piece of hard paper and press against the hole from inside, then you can use epoxy/JB weld or what ever you want to seal up. A little paint outside and its like new! Dont waste more time on this, follow my steps and its done in 30min.

This one is good for hammering all the way, you can start with a shorter. https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Magnet.../dp/B005NY5ASU

This one i think will be best for hammering power. 1/2" Drive Long Reach Hex Socket-6mm (SHP.6LA)

And i also recomend removing the bolt holding swing arm, same shit if you dont lubricate. Had to use a sledge hammer to remove it and i see others have serious problems getting it out. Worst case scenario is cutting the swing arm to remove it. On my 3tb its possible to lubricate with nipple, 4pt there is nothing. Why they removed them i dont understand, maybe the lubrication from nipple was not good enough and its better removing bolt. Be carefull with bolt its expensive, have nut on so you dont hammer the threads in the beginning. But dont hit the nut, screw it in so you hit the bolt.
Its out! Adding photos and a video later..
Last edited by bergspre; 14 May 2017 at 14:43.
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  #70  
Old 10 Jun 2017
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I have cleaned the pin and the hole that it should glide into.
The pin will go quite easy in but not further then on the picture. Do you remember if this is normal? The hole is probably not the same width further in so im guessing that this is ok.

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  #71  
Old 10 Jun 2017
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Ive just taken this of mine which is obviously on the bike. It looks like youve pretty much got yours sorted i reckon
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  #72  
Old 14 Jun 2018
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This is a year later but maybe someone would like to see this, as I said last summer videos were on the way..

Here's a link to 3 videos I took while hammering out the guide pin.

caliper guide pin stuck youtube playlist
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  #73  
Old 14 Jun 2018
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Hi bergspre.

Watching your videos and im thinking im going to go out and check and regrease mine. I never would have thought they would gum up so bad. Glad it was sorted without damage anyway.

Bill
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  #74  
Old 14 Jun 2018
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Think its importan that you inform in video that its possible to use hex key first and try to make it come lose, and if you gonna use hammer its importan to support the end you hammer on and not the other part. Just luck it didnt break off if you hammered so hard.
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  #75  
Old 19 Jun 2018
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Honda, Kawasaki and Suzuki all use the same general caliper(mostly Honda and Kawi) on many of there ds bikes so pins can probably be gotten new from them. The hole spacing and mount bracket vary but the pins are often very close to the same and some may work fine. otherwise a good polishing and cover everything in nickel antiseize , a person can also have them plated in nickel which would work great for rust prevention .



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