You went to the shop, did you ride to the shop for checking valves? Or was the bike left over night at the shop? Iam just thinking about temp on engine when check valves.

thanks for your concern. The bike stood for a couple of hours before check. No hot engine

Engine needs to be stone cold when setting valve clearances. I just had a 10.000 km service done on my TT. The Yamaha dealer insisted on me bringing the bike in the day before, so as to be sure the engine was cold when setting the valves.

It starts with one kick from cold now, whereas it took 2-5 kicks before.

good to know thanks. My bike had been on the beach for about 4 hours and then driven literally 200meters to mechanic to rest another hour.

However it's 30+ degrees C here so not sure anything ever gets really cold here

It typically needs more than one kick. But my technique isn't perfect either.

Doesnt matter if its hot or cold, the clearences wont change because of that.

As for the job itself, theres tutorials outhere, I would reckon youtube would be a good place to start. Be sure you know what you're doing. The job itself doesnt take long. I do it on about half an hour, and dont have to rush things. But theres some stuff you just need to have sorted out before you start.

Theres 2 tdc's, and only one is right when you set the valves. When you turn the engine ower, be sure to have all valvecovers removed (one for the intake, and two for the exhaust) As you turn the engine, you can se the valves move up and down. The WRONG tdc, is when the intakevalves goes down, and as they go up, the exhaustvalves go down. At this tdc, theres pressure on the valves, making no, or very little slack in the valves. Turn the engine further to get the CORRECT tdc...You turn the engine over further, and the intakevalves go completely up, and the exhaustvalves go all the way down and up. Turn it further, you will see the intakevalves go down and up, and the exhasutvalves doesnt move, and now comes the correct tdc. Now theres no pressure on either set of valves. Hope it makes sence.

Just turn the engine over a couple of times, so you can see the valves move.

The caps/valvecovers can seem very tight when you remove them, but please resist the urge to overtighten them at assembly. They only need something like 10Nm. Theres nu preassure on the covers, you just need to tighten them enough for the o-ring to seal. A short spanner, and toighten with two fingers is about right.

Also, the exhaustvalves can be a bit tricky to meassure, as they sit in a bit of an angle. So people often set them a bit too loose by mistake.

Do you know how to strip the bike down for the job? Mainly remove gastank and seat..? I also remove the coil to gain more access.

I think I'll have some time on my hand in the upcoming weekend, i suppose I could make a tutorial, or some sort of videoclip to show the wrong tdc, how to meassure the valves ect ect...My spokens english doesnt come so natural, but I could give it a go if you reckon it would be helpfull?

Just found this, use this and you will be home safe. Its the same for the xt600: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fJHdyxLjwxY Notice how hes at the wrong tdc at first.

Differences:

In the video, theres 2 valvecovers for the intake, the xt600 only has one.
In the video, he uses a screwdriver to tighten the valves, the xt600 doesnt have a slot like that, so you need a little set of pliers or simular instead.
Be sure to use the specs for the xt600 to set the valves. Intake at 0.10, exhasut at 0.15.

Im no authority on motorcycle valve setting, but ive never seen valve clearing specs for a hot motorcycle engine. On cars, yes, but not on motorcycles. The TT manual specifically states that the valve clerance is when cold/ambient temp.

Again, im no Yamaha oracle though.

To the OP, there's a pretty good tutorial in the Yamaha TT600RE service manual with pictures and all. I can send it to you, if you dont have it?

Hot or cold same?no thats not true, adjust them cold! intake is 0,05-0,10

I guess that means you have checked if theres any differences cold or hot? 'Cause I have, and theres not.

Its not like you have to wait several hours, days or weeks to adjust valves.

Well i quess you would say that the metal stays the same cold or hot.. Adjust as you like, its common sense for all mechanics to do the job when they are cold. And dont tell me you know excactly the distance cold/hot engine with a feeler gauge.

My feelergauges go from 0.08 to 0.10 to 0.12. And i cant tell a difference hot or cold.

When adjusting valves on bikes with shims, they often jump in 0.05 increments, so this should be precise enough.

So all I meant to say was, it doesnt matter. Its easier to work on the bike when its not burning hot, but thats about it.

I just checked mine, its been almost 20.000km since last, i had to tighten both intakevalves 0.04mm, and tighten one exhaustvalve 0.05mm. I could hear them tapping a bit, but the bike could easely have driven a lot more before adjustments HAD to be made

Thank you very much for all helpful comments. I have service manual with photos etc (it even says it's for tt600r 98-07, but it shows battery in some parts...). it's just that I don't have tools yet (or experience).

I'm somewhere in Serbia now, after some amazing off road in Albania. Saw a bike shop here that I will visit tomorrow.