Hi all,

After many thousands of miles overlandng on my XT660Z, I've finally opted for the lightweight approach and bought a WR250R. I was lucky to find one with most of the modifications I had intended to do already done. With A 280 big-bore kit, 14L Safari tank and rally fairing and a LOT more, she really feels and rides like a lightweight 660 Tenere.

For any WR250R owners looking to prepare their bike for overlanding, I've put together a full list of mods, with hyperlinks to product websites. As I get to know the bike more, and continue to modify it, I'll update the list.

You can find the list here:

https://horcamoto.com/wr250r-modifications/

__________________
Blogging @ www.horcamoto.com

Looks good, nice job! How about posting the list here, so others can add to it and comment?
Like this thread that's been going for years and is very useful:

http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...ong-haul-23847

__________________
Grant Johnson
Seek, and ye shall find.
------------------------
Inspiring, Informing and Connecting travellers since 1997!
www.HorizonsUnlimited.com

IF you were going a WR, why not a 400?

__________________
www.midlifemate.com Follow me in SA Asia

Thank you for your findings.
I am preparing a WR400F as we speak.
However, I will take a heavier XT660 for a ride in the Stans later this year.
The reason why I wouldn't take the WR for long distance ride are the service intervals. The WR400F asks to have the oil changed and valves checked every 500km!

Obviously the WR250 has different service intervals. This is something I totally missed when I got mine.

__________________
One life - live it

I think the WR250R is quite a unique bike, in that it has a service interval WAY longer than enduro equivalents such as Yam's WR-F series, but still had credible off-road capability unlike some of the other small dual sports. Sadly there is nothing equivalent in the 350-450 range. The trusty old DRZ is probably the closest, but I want FI. And I want the reliability and after-market infrastructure of a big (Japanese) manufacturer so CCM's GP450 is not an option - nice bike though it is. And there is a ton of after-market parts to mod a WRR.

My 660 Tenere was extremely reliable and almost every WRR owner reports similar robustness and reliability.

It's been said a thousand times, but if only Yamaha did a WR450R.....

__________________
Blogging @ www.horcamoto.com

The WR250R has 26,000 mile valve check interval. The WR400F/WR450 are race bikes, so intervals will be less. It's a more highly tuned (more HP) engine. But I guarantee you can go well beyond 500 km. on your WR400F.

Especially traveling, you'll not be racing so you can stretch intervals a lot ... like at least double. Several friends raced WR400's in Super Moto. They got 3 seasons out of a motor, racing nearly every weekend during 4 month race season. No blow ups. Valves hold spec well and oil does not break down ... so 500 km. is very pessimistic, IMHO.

The WR250R comes in a mild state of tune, designed to run fast on highway all day. It's been around since 2008, very few failures. You DO have to change the oil more frequently but can probably go further than the 400F depending on USE and Abuse. (I'd guess every 2500 mile oil change)

You could go with Suzuki DRZ400, bit heavier than WR250R, more power, reliable, easy to maintain ... and cheaper than the WR250R.
BUT ... Old design, Carb not F.I.

No question the WR rides lighter than a DRZ (owned DRZ-E for 3 years) ... and WR250R a better road bike. So smooth!

IMO, only real competition might be the new Husky and KTM 350's. Both over
$10,000 USD. You can find a nice, low mile used WR250R (In USA) between $4500 and $6000 USD.

Since the WR has been around nearly 10 years it's well supported in the aftermarket ... and LOTS has been learned about doing mods from owners.
Lots of new, better products coming out for the WR all the time. So Much Too Learn about this very popular machine.

A person can change to steel valves on the WR400/426 and then move the service interval to where all others are . The oem Ti valves are the cause of short intervals otherwise it's the same as any other .

The newer WR450's are stone reliable and make a great ds bike and probably near the 250 reliability , the newer the better with '14-'16+ being the best version yet.

Well, ... the WR400F came with steel valves and 500km interval.

__________________
One life - live it

Some of them came with TI , thinking the Exhaust valves only, unless I'm thinking the '01 426's . It was common for those to have short life and most replaced with the steel versions.

Service intervals really only need to be done by how a bike is used. Someone not revving the crap out of it running high rpms all the time can go to more "normal" specs. 500km I would guess is for racing and I've never known anyone to follow that close. 2000- 3000km is more like it and that's even getting short personally.

Hoping members here can steer this thread back to the WR250R.
Yamaha don't make a 400/450 street legal dual sport bike ... probably won't have one anytime soon. Current Yam 400/450's will never make good travel bikes like the WR250R is.

Why?

As discussed, race motor needs frequent service. Low elec. output, has no real sub frame or way to carry heavy loads, motocross suspension.

WR250R has all this and more. It is also a proven long distance travel bike.

If you own a WR250R or have traveled on one, lets hear about it. Maybe leave the other stuff out or start another thread?

The bike doesn't need much. Just the usual the factory always forget to put on or subpar stuff they do put on and some minor things.

Bars, heated grip pads, might as well put decent grips back on, hand guards, decent mirror, thicker form oil with when riding with luggage, USB chargers, spot lights, I’ve also got that sandman sprocket cover, bit of Zeta protectors but that’s more of a nice to have, bash plate, large fuel tank, rim locks, pivot pegs (goes on all my bikes), steering stabilizer (never ride without it anymore), smaller tail light and plate hanger, wider seat is nice, don’t need a screen IMHO, I like to have SS oil filters and twin air air filters and I ended up putting vibranators on it which really work. Next bike I’ll just swap my bars over.

Most of this stuff I'd put on any overland bike.

It certainly doesn't need any brake upgrades.

__________________
Tacos Tyring Travels.com

Wow! You've got most of it covered! Nice! I've love a steering damper, but oh so pricey ... but nothing better in deep sand for me. Guess I'll have to bite the bullet on that one.

What about your suspension? The serious off road WR guys mostly ALL up grade suspension at both ends. I've not ridden the WR in serious off road ... but I'd guess on a loaded WR travel bike ... that it would be a good thing.

Any plans to upgrade suspension?

What is your typical on board load on your WR? Camping gear or no?

Any clever weight saving ideas? (pipe, passenger pegs? )

Hope Paul (OP) chimes back in soon. Love to hear his thoughts after he's taken his new WR out in the boonies.

Thanks.

I did most of that stuff on my DRZ-E too which was a trails only bike. I'm still hoping that at some point some factory starts putting that stuff on themselves. Who rides without a bashplate and hand guards? Just put it on. For a while Honda included the hand guards in Australia I think.

Anyway, no I didn't do anything to the suspension. I measured the sags loaded and only my heavy frame needed a stiffer rear spring. To minimise dive in the forks I changed to a thicker oil.

The shims in the stock shock are way to small, so there is definitely room for improvement, but this is not a trail bike IMHO. After this next trip I'll think hard about getting a 100kg bike instead with a more suited gear box. It's a little too spread on the WRR for my liking on single trail. Didn't fiddle with the gearing much though, because it's too heavy for fun single trail anyway.

But ignoring the power and ok suspension Yamaha built the ultimate "overland dirt trail travel bike" (I'm making it a new category!).

I travel with camping gear and my gear with 6l of water weighs 20-25kg.

There is a weight saving thread on another forum and I think it wasn't more than 20kg off. So that still is heavier than a nice 450. Not worth the effort I think.

__________________
Tacos Tyring Travels.com

Many long term WR riders swear by lower gearing. They feel stock gearing is TOO HIGH. Most add a few teeth on rear sprocket, some do front sprocket as well, but you have to be careful not to rub chain into swingarm using a too small front sprocket.

Plenty of guys are riding lightly loaded WR's on some crazy-ass trails. I'm too old and very weak to do such antics ... but many do it and do OK. I barely survive by having old, learned skills and instincts and good technique. If I have to lift the bike ... I'm done.

After reading Mick and Tan's reports from Africa, I would MUCH rather be on a WR250R than their very heavy DR650's. Their DR's are modified with stuff I would never do. Way too much extra weight added from their mods.
I believe their bikes are pushing up on 550 lbs. (250 kg) fully fueled/loaded. (Stock DR650 is 367 lbs wet)
That positively ruins the DR650 off road. May as well be on a BMW or Vstrom.

Hopefully Yamaha (and other Japanese OEM's, are thinking of the poor aftermarket guys out there ... and giving them a break. LOTS of companies provide aftermarket goodies (bash plates, hand guards, racks, et al) in different styles, price range and quality.

I prefer to pick my own from the pack of providers. Same with hand guards and many other items and services.

You've got your gear down nice and lite at 25 kg. with camp gear.

I don't see the WR250R as a true trail bike either ... but if traveling, hopefully it is capable enough to get through tough situations you typically find going Walk-A-Bout. Things like fast, choppy desert tracks with wash board, deep sand tracks, steep and rough mountain roads.

In Mexico I've Chickened out from dozens of possible dirt routes, being uncertain riding my DR650. And at times in Baja, I struggle in deep sand ... whose condition constantly changes. (Wind, Race Buggies, Rain, Heat) When it's damp it's good and right after the buggies go through it's better as at 100 mph buggies literally BLOW the sand out of the track, making it easier on a bike ... sort of.

Much as I'd love a lighter 350 KTM, Husky, Beta or other Euro bike, I'm still not convinced I could put 50,000 trouble free miles on any of them. Also, most are WAY too tall for me. The WR actually fits my short arse.

I've changed the sprockets to larger ones to clear the swingarm better and not wear down the guide but the ratio of the same. Maybe a little lower for the dirt. You just reminded me too look into that again.
I'm shipping out by week to Joburg so have some tidying up to do.

Actually doing some of the same portions of route as Mick and Tan. I would agree on the lighter but understand their choice. Where they are now it's probably a better choice. I'll find out when I get to Europe I guess.

I'm told changing the gearing has a significant impact on the gear box ratio as well although I don't quite understand that and as such am doubtful still. I never had issues with the gearing in the box on the Suzy which is a way better trail bike as a result. In Baja I was constantly between gears. A better rider could sit in the higher gear but second was to slow and third to high for me. Can't say I experienced that on my Suzy in Australia on similar terrain.

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

__________________
Tacos Tyring Travels.com