Hi all,

After many thousands of miles overlandng on my XT660Z, I've finally opted for the lightweight approach and bought a WR250R. I was lucky to find one with most of the modifications I had intended to do already done. With A 280 big-bore kit, 14L Safari tank and rally fairing and a LOT more, she really feels and rides like a lightweight 660 Tenere.

For any WR250R owners looking to prepare their bike for overlanding, I've put together a full list of mods, with hyperlinks to product websites. As I get to know the bike more, and continue to modify it, I'll update the list.

You can find the list here:

https://horcamoto.com/wr250r-modifications/

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Blogging @ www.horcamoto.com

Looks good, nice job! How about posting the list here, so others can add to it and comment?
Like this thread that's been going for years and is very useful:

http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...ong-haul-23847

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Grant Johnson
Seek, and ye shall find.
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Inspiring, Informing and Connecting travellers since 1997!
www.HorizonsUnlimited.com

IF you were going a WR, why not a 400?

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Thank you for your findings.
I am preparing a WR400F as we speak.
However, I will take a heavier XT660 for a ride in the Stans later this year.
The reason why I wouldn't take the WR for long distance ride are the service intervals. The WR400F asks to have the oil changed and valves checked every 500km!

Obviously the WR250 has different service intervals. This is something I totally missed when I got mine.

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One life - live it

I think the WR250R is quite a unique bike, in that it has a service interval WAY longer than enduro equivalents such as Yam's WR-F series, but still had credible off-road capability unlike some of the other small dual sports. Sadly there is nothing equivalent in the 350-450 range. The trusty old DRZ is probably the closest, but I want FI. And I want the reliability and after-market infrastructure of a big (Japanese) manufacturer so CCM's GP450 is not an option - nice bike though it is. And there is a ton of after-market parts to mod a WRR.

My 660 Tenere was extremely reliable and almost every WRR owner reports similar robustness and reliability.

It's been said a thousand times, but if only Yamaha did a WR450R.....

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The WR250R has 26,000 mile valve check interval. The WR400F/WR450 are race bikes, so intervals will be less. It's a more highly tuned (more HP) engine. But I guarantee you can go well beyond 500 km. on your WR400F.

Especially traveling, you'll not be racing so you can stretch intervals a lot ... like at least double. Several friends raced WR400's in Super Moto. They got 3 seasons out of a motor, racing nearly every weekend during 4 month race season. No blow ups. Valves hold spec well and oil does not break down ... so 500 km. is very pessimistic, IMHO.

The WR250R comes in a mild state of tune, designed to run fast on highway all day. It's been around since 2008, very few failures. You DO have to change the oil more frequently but can probably go further than the 400F depending on USE and Abuse. (I'd guess every 2500 mile oil change)

You could go with Suzuki DRZ400, bit heavier than WR250R, more power, reliable, easy to maintain ... and cheaper than the WR250R.
BUT ... Old design, Carb not F.I.

No question the WR rides lighter than a DRZ (owned DRZ-E for 3 years) ... and WR250R a better road bike. So smooth!

IMO, only real competition might be the new Husky and KTM 350's. Both over
$10,000 USD. You can find a nice, low mile used WR250R (In USA) between $4500 and $6000 USD.

Since the WR has been around nearly 10 years it's well supported in the aftermarket ... and LOTS has been learned about doing mods from owners.
Lots of new, better products coming out for the WR all the time. So Much Too Learn about this very popular machine.

A person can change to steel valves on the WR400/426 and then move the service interval to where all others are . The oem Ti valves are the cause of short intervals otherwise it's the same as any other .

The newer WR450's are stone reliable and make a great ds bike and probably near the 250 reliability , the newer the better with '14-'16+ being the best version yet.

I've changed the sprockets to larger ones to clear the swingarm better and not wear down the guide but the ratio of the same. Maybe a little lower for the dirt. You just reminded me too look into that again.
I'm shipping out by week to Joburg so have some tidying up to do.

Actually doing some of the same portions of route as Mick and Tan. I would agree on the lighter but understand their choice. Where they are now it's probably a better choice. I'll find out when I get to Europe I guess.

I'm told changing the gearing has a significant impact on the gear box ratio as well although I don't quite understand that and as such am doubtful still. I never had issues with the gearing in the box on the Suzy which is a way better trail bike as a result. In Baja I was constantly between gears. A better rider could sit in the higher gear but second was to slow and third to high for me. Can't say I experienced that on my Suzy in Australia on similar terrain.

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

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Tacos Tyring Travels.com

Just checked the sprockets and I've changed to 14/47 which is the same ratio as stock. Figured it's a decent balance. A little high for sand trails but good on gravel and dirt roads. Which is probably 90% of the route typically. 4WD trails included. I've kept the original 13 tooth to change to in Europe. Hopefully on the same chain. It'll be 99% pavement there.

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Tacos Tyring Travels.com

not a yamaha but a 250 nevertheless

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2uFBAn6ET5Y

for all the small bike doubters