Doubtful any used cylinder bought off ebay would be good enough condition to use as is . The TT is plated so may be able to do a quick hone to get fresh hatch lines and new rings , IF the plating is still good and within spec. , no seller there will be able to tell you the true size other than guessing/BS'ing .

Getting a new sleeve still involves boring and honing to size once installed , waste of money .
Just bore cylinder to next size and Wiseco piston kit , done . I believe this had been gone over in the past.

The '83 TT cylinder will only fit '83-'85 or '86 XT's , change in bolt pattern somewhere there.

I recently had my 84 XT600 rebored to 2nd oversize and am using an OEM piston and rings. Parts purchased from Partzilla. Local labor to bore and hone to fit with proper clearances was $90.00US. In the process of re-installing now.

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'84 XT600 is now bored to 2nd oversize and new OEM pistons and rings installed. No more smoking.

Sound advice! Thanks guys

I've not installed rings on pistons yet so I think i'm making a bigger deal out of it then need be. If I'm wrong please set me straight please.

Is anyone happy with a certain tool etc? I've seen several different technics to this.

Piston rings are very brittle. They snap easily and are only sold in a set.

There is no special tool that I know of.

You have to open them up and slide them over the piston. Do not twist them or they will snap. You will probably need a thin flat head screwdriver.

Be patient and don't rush it.

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Did some trips.
Rode some bikes.
Fix them for a living.
Can't say anymore.

I've always just used my fingers, no problem at all...

Installing rings is pretty easy, oil control rings are the most difficult but patience pays. The rings will withstand the installation if you are careful.

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'84 XT600 is now bored to 2nd oversize and new OEM pistons and rings installed. No more smoking.

There is special ring pliers made to grip the ring ends and spread under control to stop snapping them , but I've always used my hands . Just have to go slow , spread as little as possible and don't twist anymore than absolutely necessary .

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performan...w4fhoC8rTw_wcB

Thanks guys

And to be clear. You can compress the rings by hand when putting into cylinder? Not needing a special tool?

Also what is the break in procedure for the new rings.

Just make sure all the ring ends are spaced as per the service manual , use hand to compress rings , pay particular attention to the ends of the oil control rings(bottom set of three) that they are not overlapped .

Below is just my method, subject to debate:

Have the bike ready to ride preferable before starting , can start it momentarily before hand to verify it will run but the first five minutes best to ride. Take it out on the flat , give it some gas fairly aggressive up to 1/2 to 2/3 throttle in second gear shift to third throttle throttle up,then release and slow, letting the motor slow the bike , repeat 8 to tens times , never going full throttle . Now ride for "normal" for ten -fifteen minutes , constantly varying throttle , never more than 3/4 throttle. Change oil and filter.

Ride it normal then , but for 100-200 miles try to not use full throttle for longer periods . Change oil again at 300-400 miles.

Why would you change the oil and filter after breaking in a new piston? If there by some reason should be so much material removed from the engine, as to clog up the oilfilter, and seriously contaminate the oil, the engine is beyound salvation...

I started to change my oil 1000km after having installed a new piston "cause the internet says so" and pure gulden oil came out. I installed the drainscrew, topped up the oil, and rode a couple thousand kilometers more. When chaning the oil (after 3500-4000km total) i cut open the oilfilter, which had no debrees in it (why would it...?) The filter was on its second oilchange, so just under 10.000km.

The bike is at 160.000km, I have around 35.000km on the piston after the installation, so nothing much.

I rode my bike normally, tried not to lug it, and made sure to enginebrake as much as possible. Dont rev the piss out of it, and you will be fine.

Knew I wouldn't get away with recommending something here without someone knowing better . If $15 bucks for oil and filter it too much to quickly get rid of all break-in particles, break-in lubes, and machining particles ect.. do what you want . I've never, ever, ever seen, heard or talked to a single engine builder , even the dumb ones , say to not bother changing the oil right away after break-in . It reminds me why I don't do as most claim on the internet and listen to the pros.

I dont get it, why change filter every 2 time you change oil? With spending on the bike in a year in gas, insurance, road taxes, parts etc.. a filter is like 0,1% spending. And why mix the old oil thats in the filter and filter housing with the new oil? I know your bike has done 160k Jens, honestly i think you have been lucky, most people have some kind of problems long before they reach 100k.

JJ, its not about someone knowing better, just somebody who has a different oppinion than you...

Isnt that what were here for? disgussing stuff?

Its not about the money for me, just common sense. You can do a lot of stuff like that, change the chain and sprockets every 5000km so you dont risk breaking it, change the brakedisc when its worn 0.0001mm, change the tires way before they're worn and so on...

I think there is a lot of "better safe than sorry" advice outthere. Have a look at your filter, then tell me why you want to change it...If it isnt dirty, why change it? If its dirty from installing a bored/honed cylinder, and a new piston, you have trouble elsewhere. Thats common sense for me.

If you REALLY feel like being good to your engine, then why cheap out and buy an oil and a filter for 15£ ? Seems a bit hypocritical to say that the oil and filter is so important as to change it so early, and the buy cheap oil.

Which material are you trying to get rid of? The oilfilter filters the oil, why would there be some material left in the oil? The oil certaintly isnt "worn" after a couple hundred kilometers. The filter is easy to cut open when you remove it, so if you're really concerned why not cut it open? I did, and didnt find a thing.... I try to back up my statements with actual experience, and looking in to things. Not saying others dont, I just do.

We fully agree that it wouldnt hurt the bike to change oil and filter often (only the environment)

Even a completely new engine goes 1000km before first service, and you would think the lawyers made sure that was well within the safe range....

Back in the early 80's where the bike was designed, yamaha wrote in the manual to change the oil at 1000km, then every 6000km, and the oilfilter every other time, with the oil and filters that was available at that time..
You'd think that would still be true today. Think about how much technology has evolved since then, oil should be way better than back then, so we should be able to go way beyound yamahas level. So there should be a big buffer by just going with the factory intervals, with modern oil.

So just different oppinions, and perhaps different ways of life. Im not saying I know better, just saying what my personal experience was, with the oil and oilfilter after installing a bored/honed cylinder and changing my piston.

Hmm, 2 quarts regular dyno oil ( COMMON sense to not use synthetic for breakin) $11 + $4 for the filter = $15 , https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p...term=motor+oil Pretty easy to add .

Give me a break , if you want to take the chance of running oil longer rather than doing what EVERY (I do mean EVERY !) quality engine builder will say , go ahead , just don't recommend it too people that don't know about this stuff . Oh ya I know the oil looks clean , therefore it is ,

Also as for the miles on a motor(as your implying your miles are due to not needing to change oil early) , any motor that is run more or less street or long hours of steady miles and miles will last considerably longer than those that are short trip , commuter miles , start -stop , cold start-up over and over . As in the auto relm 80% of all wear in at startup . That's why I don't simply look at high miles meaning something was done right either when new or later , to me that means a lot of highway miles and not subject to as much wear as is standard.

I've sent samples to a lab to see what is actually in the oil ,have you ?

I really dont know what to say when you start comparing to tires and brake disc... You make it sound like you done this a hundred times and never any problem with particles in the filter after piston change, or is it like this you done it one time and thats your reference? Honestly why dont you change filter if its not a question about money?, we all know that it best for engines to have fresh oil and new filters!