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Xt 600 tenere wont start Xt 600 tenere wont start
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Yamaha Tech Originally the Yamaha XT600 Tech Forum, due to demand it now includes all Yamaha's technical / mechanical / repair / preparation questions.
Photo by Alessio Corradini, on the Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia, of two locals

I haven't been everywhere...
but it's on my list!


Photo by Alessio Corradini,
on the Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia,
of two locals



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  #16  
Old 26 Jun 2017
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With the petcock on crack open the bowl drain and verify the carb is getting fuel for starters . If fuel pours out then you'll have to make sure you put the correct jets in and all parts that go with them. Did you blow through all the passages to verify open ? Possible whatever had been in one passage has dislodged and now fully plugged . It has taken me several "cleanings on 1 or 2 of these carbs because the passages are so hard to get completely clean . The pilot circuit is the worst one for that . Chemicals , soaking , and blowing from both ends and repeat over and over is what it can take. Without blasting of air it probably won't clear up.
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  #17  
Old 26 Jun 2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Squily View Post
True, but when/if you use the kick-starter it should not have an effect. I used my bike with a blown alternator coil and dead battery for a few weeks and thousands of kms with just the kickstarter.

If this is one of the E-start bikes that has a TCI it requires the battery power to run, stator can be shot but it'll run till the battery voltage drops to 11.2V ,using the kicker won't start it because they don't have an ignition side on the stator, but if it's one of the older CDI bikes it can run without a battery technically because it runs off the stator(unless it's shot) so then low voltage doesn't matter and it'll start the same with the kicker, they have an ignition side on the stator for running.


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  #18  
Old 27 Jun 2017
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I think I just got my answer.

No compression, reads about 75psi.

Engine will be off the bike and inspected in few hours.
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  #19  
Old 27 Jun 2017
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Have you checked to see if you have the correct timing? You can do this by connecting the battery, turning the engine by hand with a spark plug 'outside' the engine and verifying it against the timing marks on the flywheel.

I thought about something else - I had the flywheel shift once when the key sheared of. It wasn't much, but it was enough to stop the engine completely. So you can also check whether indicated TDC on the flywheel is actually TDC

And I assume you have checked if there is spark
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  #20  
Old 27 Jun 2017
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Spark is there, not the brightest, but still.

I will check for timing once again, when I put everything back.

I pulled off the top end, valves look ok and they seal good enough, I also poured about 1dl of gasoline and oil mix inside the barrel, and it took about half an hour to drain pass the rings...
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  #21  
Old 27 Jun 2017
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If a motor has been flooded bad the oil is washed off the walls and compression will show low . I squirt a bunch of oil down the sparkplug hole and slowly turn the motor over a bunch to cover everything good , then spin it over fast to blow the extra oil out and then recheck compression . If it goes way up chances are that all that was wrong , if it only goes up 20-25 psi maybe then it got something leaking badly .

If your head is off yet turn it upside down and fill the chamber with gas , good sealing valves will hold it ,common to have a slow seep in one or 2 but any running flow is bad.
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  #22  
Old 28 Jun 2017
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After a second look, it was obvious that valves do not seal, especially the intake pair, so I am off to porting and polishing, and buy some new gaskets.

What do you think, OEM or some quality aftermarket?
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  #23  
Old 28 Jun 2017
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You won't go wrong with oem gaskets , I use a majority of them . I have used Athena and Cometic aftermarket sets with good results as well. Stay away from the off brand sets you get on Ebay mostly.


The exhaust valves are usually the ones that get beat the worst , if your intakes are bad take a look at your air filter , poor filtration or dirt getting in downstream of the filter is what kills intake valves.
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  #24  
Old 28 Jun 2017
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I bought a head gasket from the local yamaha dealer. It cost me £50 ! I thought there had been a mistake and they had ordered me a full gasket set, but no.....that was for just the head gasket alone. I take some comfort that it fitted well and never leaked.
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  #25  
Old 28 Jun 2017
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Yeah, OEM parts here, are also very expensive. Will ask them anyway tho...

Thanks for the tip about valves
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  #26  
Old 28 Jun 2017
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Always worth keeping an eye on ebay (if youve got the time to wait). I bought a nos head gasket because it was really cheap less than ten pounds.A genuine item to have in readiness if needed. Other genuine gaskets pop up often as well.
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  #27  
Old 30 Jun 2017
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I'm a bit of a tight-arse and don't like to spend money on things I think are overpriced.

As a result, I end up making my own gaskets most of the time -
  • role of vellumoid is only about $5.
  • rubber gaskets- you can superglue an extra o-ring onto the top if they become too compacted. Take large o-ring of about 1.5mm diameter, cut it and snake it around
  • metal gaskets - two to three layers of spray-paint and they get a very good seal again.
  • valve stem seals - take the old down to the spare shop and just ask them to match it up with what they have. Costs a few cents each

Cheap gaskets tend to harden up very quickly and then crack, and/or leak.
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  #28  
Old 15 Jul 2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Squily View Post
Have you checked to see if you have the correct timing? You can do this by connecting the battery, turning the engine by hand with a spark plug 'outside' the engine and verifying it against the timing marks on the flywheel.

I thought about something else - I had the flywheel shift once when the key sheared of. It wasn't much, but it was enough to stop the engine completely. So you can also check whether indicated TDC on the flywheel is actually TDC
Forget everything I wrote so far... Squily was right! Lucy for me the timing was of for at least 80 degrees, otherwise I would miss this for sure





Oh, and thanks again to a friend "Seba", who lended me the magneto removal tool
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  #29  
Old 16 Jul 2017
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I will be taking off the clutch cover, to replace the gaskets. Is there any thing I should be carefull about? I am talking about the kick start and decompression cable, if someone could explain taking off and re-installing the cover, so I dont get any springs or other parts flying all over the garage
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  #30  
Old 17 Jul 2017
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There is the nut you take off for the decomp cable and it's spring , just look it over good before taking the nut off to see how it goes back together , take a picture if needed. Take the kick lever off the shaft and while pulling the cover off try to push in on the kicker shaft so it doesn't want to come with the cover . Not much on these to worry about .

There are 2 lineup dowels and I usually put in a new anti-drain valve and crankshaft seal when one of my covers are off , cheap to do and it's good to have them working properly .#22, 23 &24 , http://www.partzilla.com/parts/searc...UMP/parts.html

crank seal #25 http://www.partzilla.com/parts/searc...R+1/parts.html

The kicker shaft and decomp shaft seal is also good to replace with the cover off ,if you don't know when was the last time they were replaced . #16 & #28 http://www.partzilla.com/parts/searc...TER/parts.html

Re-installing the cover the decomp lever gets flipped to one side but I can't remember offhand which way ,When you look at it it's fairly self explanatory.

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