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XT600 rear suspension XT600 rear suspension
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Yamaha Tech Originally the Yamaha XT600 Tech Forum, due to demand it now includes all Yamaha's technical / mechanical / repair / preparation questions.
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  #1  
Old 18 Jan 2015
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XT600 rear suspension
I got a 2003 XT600 for my wife knowing it would need to be lowered for her so also got a 35mm lowering kit. I just can't get enough pressure on the bike to get the holes to line up on the lengthened rear link. Am I just being a wimp or does the shock and spring also need to be changed for a shorter one?
What is the threaded bar in the kit for?
It's a KEDO kit (e-bay) but came with no instructions and I can't find anything here or on general web search.
Confused :confused1:
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  #2  
Old 19 Jan 2015
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Use a ratchet tied to the very rear of you swing arm (best leverage) & to your subframe then tighten until the holes align, even with this method its still tight but will work, tie around both ends of swing arm not one or you will twist the arm out of shape.

The bolt is for "modding" the kick stand, to get TUV approval in Germany this method must be used of it will not pass MOT in Germany as it is part of an approved kit, you chop the kickstand in two places & weld that bolt in giving you adjust-ability.

Anywhere else you can just cop a section out & weld it up, job done.

But hopefully,,,your stand is worn (like most XT`s) and leans over more than it should, so no need to chop the stand anyhow.

Here is a pic with that bolt you have.



You see the modded stands on ebay.de occasionally as people put them back to standard & sell off the modified ones.

Mezo.

And fill in you profile please.
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  #3  
Old 19 Jan 2015
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Smile
Thanks Mezo. I did do that but wimped out too early. I'll try again. I now have the swing arm out to sort out the rust (cosmetic for the lady) Many thanks
John
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  #4  
Old 19 Jan 2015
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Make sure you grease everything well when you re-assemble things, the 600E`s dont come with grease nipples & the swing arm bolt is prone to rusing in the bearings & the only way to remove it is by chopping it in four places.

I know this because im doing this right now on a 600E & its a real pain in the arse.

Mezo.
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  #5  
Old 20 Jan 2015
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Interestingly mine has grease nipples on the very bottom link on the end of the bolt and one in the middle of the arm that goes through the swing arm. But nowhere else. What grease would you use? Rather than normal or moly grease I was thinking of either copper grease or CL grease on the swing arm bolt. CL is really thick and used in water pumps I think so not easily displaced and a swing arm is not really a fast moving part. I have a tub that I don't use for much.
Thanks for your advice Mezo.
John
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  #6  
Old 21 Jan 2015
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Can you see item #50 (nipple) and on the opposite side (just a hole) those are what’s missing on the 600E but on all previous models, that’s where the grease needs to get in to prevent the bearings/bushes rusting.



Its a mistake by Yamaha to remove them, possibly just to save a few backs? who knows.

Mezo.
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Old 21 Jan 2015
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I clean mine up and spray with a zinc coating then cover entirely with antisieze , there is no such thing as too much protection against rust on those pivot bolts.
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  #8  
Old 21 Jan 2015
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Or just buy a pair of OEM nipples 93700-06005-00 & drill & tap the arm, then you can pump it full of grease at service time (like they used to do) a regular on here has done this simple mod on his 600E, i forget who now?

Mezo.
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  #9  
Old 21 Jan 2015
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I've done the mod, after going through 2 sets of bearings for the linkage.

Did the swingarm aswell, I just use some wheelbearing-grease or similar.
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  #10  
Old 21 Jan 2015
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Well, how sensible is that. Only problem was my wife's new toy has been sitting in the garage for 5 days and she hasn't ridden it and I promised to sort it today. But, she understood the sense and so into the garage to get the nipples I have. Imperial thread (had them a while) and I only have metric taps. Phoned Yamaha. 2 days to get them at over £3 each. Went to local farm machinery shop. 2 nipples - right angle - no 45 degree. They couldn't be bothered to charge me. Drilled swing arm - I'm amazed how soft the metal is. Tapped OK. I couldn't find any combination of fibre + - steel washers that would line them up as needed and didn't want to put too much pressure on the thread so ended up using PTFE tape. Great advice. Can't imagine what it's like trying to cut a siezed swing arm bolt out Mezo. Your help much appreciated.
John
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  #11  
Old 21 Jan 2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DiverBones View Post
Can't imagine what it's like trying to cut a siezed swing arm bolt out Mezo
Its really good fun John.

Here is what’s left of the bolt, previous owner had welded a massive nut on one end & was using an air powered impact gun & bashing the other side with a hammer, which he mushroomed over so it was never going to come out after that.



I still have to press out the rusty parts from the arm & then replace everything. $$



All this because of two missing grease nipples, stupid.

Mezo.
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  #12  
Old 22 Jan 2015
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OMG, amazing you managed to do that without trashing the swing arm. Just had a thought (amazing what happens when you're sleeping!!!). Should I also drill the sleeve (10 on the diagram) to get grease through to the bolt? Is it "drillable"
John
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  #13  
Old 22 Jan 2015
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The bearings may be able to be saved there Mezo !
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  #14  
Old 22 Jan 2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DiverBones View Post
OMG, amazing you managed to do that without trashing the swing arm. Just had a thought (amazing what happens when you're sleeping!!!). Should I also drill the sleeve (10 on the diagram) to get grease through to the bolt? Is it "drillable"
John
No need John, as long as you grease the bolt as you slide it in (whey hey) it will be fine, the idea of the grease nipples is to fill the void where water can sit & do damage.

Mezo.
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  #15  
Old 22 Jan 2015
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Thanks. Now I can start putting it all together. Good luck with yours.
John
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