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Yamaha Tech Originally the Yamaha XT600 Tech Forum, due to demand it now includes all Yamaha's technical / mechanical / repair / preparation questions.
Photo by Alessio Corradini, on the Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia, of two locals

I haven't been everywhere...
but it's on my list!


Photo by Alessio Corradini,
on the Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia,
of two locals



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  #1  
Old 12 Sep 2017
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XT600E standing for 6 years

Hi All,
My XT has been gathering dust for 6 years and now its time to bring her back to life. Please could someone point me in the direction of a thread on this topic or give some advice.

Bike was serviced and all parts basically new prior to neglect.

- Tyres: Do I need to replace the inner tubes ?
- Replace battery: I presume after this period the battery is finished.
- Petrol tank was drained, carb probably not, may have been run dry prior to storage.
- Engine Oil was new. Does the oil degenerate with time? Do I need to replace the oil, if so, can/ should I run the bike to warm the oil prior to draining ?
- Chain. Re-oil, can I expect any issues with the chain. The chain has an orange appearance, hopefully superficial only ?

Anything else that may be a consideration ?

Thanks
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  #2  
Old 12 Sep 2017
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Personally I'd leave the tubes alone if they still hold pressure. I can understand the safety first argument but six years isn't that long. Similarly, while I'd check the tyres for sidewall cracks or other damage but if they looked ok I'd reserve changing them until I knew how the rest of the bike was going. Others may disagree but with the proviso that wet grip (or lack of) and fear of (tube) failure may make me change my mind I'd pump them up and use them.

I'd be surprised if the battery is still functional if its been ignored for six years so you'll probably need a new one. Even if the dash lights come on after a charge I'd be amazed if it turned the starter.

You'll close to certainly need to strip the carb down and clean it out in some detail. Dried out fuel deposits will clog everything, especially the smaller jets. On UK fuel I'd be lucky to get a year before it needs stripping so six is well down the line.

If the oil was really new when the bike was stored I'd fire it up enough to warm everything through before changing it. It's getting oil to places like the valve gear quickly enough that's likely to cause problems rather than it being a bit old. Kick it over a few times with the plug out (and earthed) so the oil pump gets back into action or squirt some from a can over the cam area to give it a fighting chance before firing it up.

The red stuff on the chain will be surface rust but if it's an O ring chain the chances are the moving parts are still ok. Check it for tight spots or to see if some links don't bend but if it's all ok I'd clean it, lube it and use it - at least for a while. It does depend on the degree of rust though. If it's really rusty it might be easier to start fresh.
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Old 12 Sep 2017
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Check tires, they have production year stamped in a circle. I would change them and tubes. With no charging for 6 years, yes battery is dead. Dont run bike with old oil, open plug front and bottom and 2 days oil is out. Lubricate chain and check for wear.
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Old 12 Sep 2017
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99% sure that all the oil is sitting in the cases and not the tank due to wet sumping. if you start it like that it will surely smoke for a while and pump will be sucking air till tank gets filled, not good. so drain the cases for sure. but at that point would buy a cheap oil, run it for some kms and then put good quality one together with a new filter.
if tank was drained then all the fuel that evaporated was a few cc in the bowl, not likely to leave much muck. problem is when people leave the tap on or it leaks, then you have several liters worth of sediments in the bowl....

add an air filter change to the list....

if tires dont have a rigid flat spot, six year old is not that bad, depends how old they were before bike was laid off
you should look at the four digit markings on the tire, last two numbers are the year.
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Old 12 Sep 2017
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Be prepared for the carb rubbers to have perished while it has been stood up. If your tyres are OK then they may be OK but if the tires are perished then consider new ones. Symptoms will be consistent with a lean mixture.

Put some carb clean product in the tank with the fresh petrol, preferably one that claims to prevent carb icing. That will have a solvent (like methanol or IPA) that will mix with any water that has condensed in the system, especially in the tank and carb jets.

I would pull the carbs. Inspect the rubbers, pull the float bowls and clean them and pull the main jet and emulsion tube to check for water and/or blockages before trying to start it.

I would start it on the old oil. Let it warm up gently wile you check lights and the horn etc.Also check the brakes aren't binding. Then drain and put new in. I quite like the idea of using a mineral oil for a gentle 100 miles of breaking it back in before swapping that out for a good quality one and a new filter. That will give a pretty good flush.

Both my XTs lived outside during the winter on cheap motocross chains (i.e. no O or X rings) and they got rusty. They always came back with a good coating of oil, manually push the bike back and forward for the whole chain run and then and a very ginger first mile or so. This may be risky advice because failure could cost you a crank case or jam the back wheel - but since you asked I am saying what worked for me.

Good luck with it.
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  #6  
Old 13 Sep 2017
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Big question is how is the piston rings after 6years, never been turned? Did you put oil into the spark plug hole? Was it outside or inside? Yes check the rear piston moving part/split pin.
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  #7  
Old 13 Sep 2017
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I recently restored a DR650 that sat 11 years, so sort of familiar with your situation.

It's lucky your fuel was drained, but do check inside of tank carefully for corrosion or gunk in there. Flushing fuel tank idea is good. I would pull out the petcock and check it, mine had totally disintegrated to dust.

My Carb internals were totally SHOT. All rubber O rings, diaphragms ruined. I simply bought a "like new" used Carb and put it in.

Hopefully your Carb is still usable ...but dried out bits in there can have you running round chasing problems forever. So consider replacement.

Make sure jets are all clear, air leak orifices as well. Clean and blow out well.
Also make sure Float is OK, not leaking.

Lots depends how /where your bike was stored. Super heat and wet not good.

New Batt for sure. Check rubber brake lines. My bike had both brake master cylinders fail. Once again, found nice used bits.

Before cranking over I would pull spark plug (plugs?) squirt oil in there. You might also pull valve inspection cover, squirt a bit in there as well. I concur with cranking with plug out before starting. Let the oil work its way round. You don't want to start on a DRY top end.

I don't know XT's well, did not know they were Dry Sump engines. So you should make sure oil pump is pumping oil up to top end before starting. Earlier posts here mention this. IMPORTANT, IMO.

With all new parts that DR650 fired right up and has run sweet since ...
Every bike will be a bit different, best of luck, hope all goes well.
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