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**no1sun** · #1 9 Jan 2022

I need to replace the steering head bearings.
I managed to remove the upper bearing and cup but the lower cup is proving a bit difficult. Haynes manual just eludes to tapping out with a bar. All seems super easy but a few hours later and various bars tried I gave up and went to the pub for some

inspiration.

:
There are two slots available for tapping out the lower cup from the frame but can’t seem to catch the lip easily. Has anyone got advice of what kind of tool to use?
It is a 1990 3TB.
Cheers
Dave
Scotland

**xtrock** · #2 9 Jan 2022

Quote:

Originally Posted by no1sun

I need to replace the steering head bearings.
I managed to remove the upper bearing and cup but the lower cup is proving a bit difficult. Haynes manual just eludes to tapping out with a bar. All seems super easy but a few hours later and various bars tried I gave up and went to the pub for some

inspiration.

:
There are two slots available for tapping out the lower cup from the frame but can’t seem to catch the lip easily. Has anyone got advice of what kind of tool to use?
It is a 1990 3TB.
Cheers
Dave
Scotland

Cut, i use dremel with a large cutting disc. Be careful dont cut to deep, just enough and use a shisel to expand in the end.

**no1sun** · #3 10 Jan 2022

Thanks, I might have to go that route (next door neighbour has a Dremel). I didn't pull all the headlight and electrics out so will have to clear an access.
Cheers
Dave
Scotland

**xtrock** · #4 10 Jan 2022

Quote:

Originally Posted by no1sun

Thanks, I might have to go that route (next door neighbour has a Dremel). I didn't pull all the headlight and electrics out so will have to clear an access.
Cheers
Dave
Scotland

I was not reading correct, the frame part is just using a thin screw driver to smash out from top, tap around hard and it will come out, heat will make it easier. I was thinking about the bearing part sitting on the steering part you pull out, thats only part that is difficult. Must pull all apart first, cut the slice a little sideways so you dont hit bottom part.

***Touring Ted*** · #5 11 Jan 2022

I do this job twice a week..

It's made 100000x easier by having the right collection of tools and having the bike tied down HARD so it doesn't move AT ALL.

You need long screwdrivers, impact screwdrivers, long lengths of round bar with odd shaped ground into them, long punch pins, a big lump hammer and a small hammer.

With the right collection of tools 99% of them will drift out with a hammer. Knock them out evenly. Moving the tool around so they don't come out squiffy and jam in the headstock.

Getting the new ones in will be fun too. You can 'TAP' them in to start with using a small hammer. ONLY tapping the very outer of the race when no bearing ever touches. Then you need to drive them in square using a proper bearing/seal driver tool (£15 for a set on ebay) or large sockets.

The important thing is to keep them straight.

You know they're seated as the tone changes when you hit them. I always use a 0.5mm feeler and make sure I can't get it in between the race and the headstock but you don't have to do this.

**no1sun** · #6 11 Jan 2022

Ok cheers thanks

**no1sun** · #7 11 Jan 2022

I was surprised there were only two small areas on the inner diameter of the frame that allow you to catch the lip of the cup. That’s Yamaha.
Will give it another go and may even make the splayed out pipe tool that I have seen on eBay.
There has been a mention on very mot since I got a few years ago about notchy steering. Turns out the upper cup was smooth but the lower was knackered. Thanks

***Touring Ted*** · #8 11 Jan 2022

Quote:

Originally Posted by no1sun

I was surprised there were only two small areas on the inner diameter of the frame that allow you to catch the lip of the cup. That’s Yamaha.
Will give it another go and may even make the splayed out pipe tool that I have seen on eBay.
There has been a mention on very mot since I got a few years ago about notchy steering. Turns out the upper cup was smooth but the lower was knackered. ��

All the front weight of the bike sits on that lower bearing. The top bearing does nothing but give lateral support to the steering stem and to adjust free-play between the bearings and frame.

The lower bearing always wears out first.

**no1sun** · #9 20 Feb 2022

Managed to drift out the lower cup eventually. The tube I used was just mild steel and it bent a bit. It was pretty straight forward after that. Thought I would post some pics.

**turboguzzi** · #10 26 Feb 2022

my way of taking the bottom inner race from the stem is to do lay down weld blobs around the race area, first, it heats the race and expands it, then, it makes good points for hitting with a sharp chisel to drive it out. never failed me.

**xtrock** · #11 4 Mar 2022

If you cut with angle grinder thin blade the heat makes it get loose, last cut in i do with dremel for not damage the axle, its not always easy to just hammer out with rust.