From Anchorage, United States to Magadan, Russian Federation - June, 2003

Magadan airways operates a weekly flight from Anchorage to Magadan during the summer months. The three of us flew over on June 21, 2003 with our three F650 Dakars starting a trip across Russia to Europe.

Initial contacts were made with the airline and the shipper about three months prior to our estimated departure date. We were told that the flights were always empty and that their was no need to worry about reservations at that point. Follow up calls were made and the shipper assured us that he would set aside room for the bikes in his load for that flight. About a month before the flight Air Magadan also indicated that we were in their computer with a reservation.

However when we showed up 4 days prior we were told that there was no record of us in the system. This seems to be typical of the way Air Magadan operates (and the rest of Russia ;-) and the next four days proved to be very frustrating for all three of us. Fortunately we had e-mails with confirmation codes.

We had to submit our bikes to customs three days beforehand to allow them to check the ownership information and the bikes and whatever else they do. VIN and Engine numbers of the bikes were checked against our registrations and titles and then we needed to prepare the bikes for shipping. As the cost to ship the bikes is calculated to be $4.10/ kilogram or by volume which ever is greater, it was in our best interested to make the bikes smaller and lighter, as much as possible.

After initially weighing and measuring the bikes, the cost was quickly estimated to be somewhat in the range of $1600 per bike - something that gave us added desire to work on them as much as possible. Pre-requisites for shipment are removing all the fuel but you can keep the oil in the bikes, also removing the batteries which were shipped in a separate box together costing about $50 for the three. We carried our panniers with us on the flight which we were charged an extra $100 each for which saved some space. Removing the windscreens and mirrors made the bikes a bit shorter (remember that the measurements are from highest to lowest and the total length and width) and these were carried with us on the plane. We also had to let the air out of our tires which makes the bikes slightly shorter and ensures the tires don't blow in the hold. The final modification came by just un-bolting the handlebars and taping them to the top, saving on the total width. Re-measuring and weighing the bikes, we were happy to find out the cost of shipping the bikes was only around the $700 mark each. Henning, who has Touratech tanks on his bike, paid about $70 more because of the extra weight.

I am sure that with the measurements that were given or the weight - the calculations still should have come out as more, so I think we were given somewhat of a break. As always, it is important to be nice to people who can save you money on these trips (and the police).

Bikes all prepared and ready, the next hurdle we were told about, was that the plane was going to be full on our trip over due to a tour group stopping off at Kamchatka for a cruise. This meant the hold could be full and they would not have room for our bikes. We would only find out if our bikes would join us for the flight over when we checked in, otherwise we would have to wait in Magadan for a week until the next flight and our lovlies arrived.

We arrived around 12pm on the Friday of the flight, and paid cash for the flights which cost us $870 each including the various taxes. To our disappointment, we were also told that our bikes would not be accompanying us on the flight and would arrive the following week. This however turned out to be a good thing as it gave us time to settle down and acclimatize to the new language and culture before we got stuck in the bureaucracy of Russian customs. The tour group flights occur approximately every four weeks and leave later in the day.

If you want to ensure that you travel with your bike, insist that the airline tells you which flight they're on, otherwise they will simply say that there's plenty of room. The flight was an interesting affair due to the cruise ship passengers which were mostly Bird watchers interested in seeing the rare Russian yellow polka-dotted sparrowski and a fellow New Zealander. Taking around 5 hours to Kamtchatka, where the plane was unloaded of the birdwatchers who had all already taken out their binoculars even before the plane had landed, we were left with only 5 people on board for the continued trip to Magadan.

Landing in Magadan, and proceeding through immigration was surprisingly effortless, with the only rigmarole involved in detailing pretty much every article in our bags on a customs form which we were told would be checked when we left the country (it wasn't). Finally we were left outside with the airport closed, mosquitoes attacking our exposed skin, and us totally confused as what to do next.

Fortunately we were offered a ride into Magadan (about 50km) for the princely sum of $50 dollars - which we reluctantly agreed to being the only option by a couple of the customs officers. Our driver turned out to be an ex-fighter pilot and his friend - who we made friends with, proved to be very helpful over the coming week.

Staying in Hotel Magadan for the next 7 days, cost us about $300 rubles (10USD) each night and was adequately comfortable (the other hotel we could find, cost $100 / night per person) The week passed quickly with us getting glimpses of the famed Russian girl and doing our own bird watching, before our bikes arrived on the next flight the following Friday.

Releasing the bikes took two days and involved acquiring a Russian registration certificate from the local 'AAA' located downtown in Magadan using our US bike registrations and Title (which we only found out about after returning to the airport) which cost us 0.1% of the bikes value - $5 dollars (declaring bikes below their actual cost).

Presenting this certificate to the customs back at the airport we were charged a storage fee for the bikes (roughly 1,400 rubles ($40)) and taken to the bikes in a broken down shed on the other side of the airport where the VIN numbers of the bikes were checked against our US registration documents. Alex- one of the Customs officer in the car that initially took us to Magadan, who had befriended us as well, was instrumental in greasing the way for us as well as offering us continual shots of vodka in his office while toasting to international friendship. No money was expected or requested in return.

Surveying the bikes we saw they had (predictably) been transported on their sides. This resulted in scratches from the bikes being dragged on their sides. Hindsight told us the bikes should have been wrapped in blankets before shipping to prevent damage. (I tried duct tape which helped somewhat but not totally successful).

The next 3 hours consisted of putting the bikes back together with the help of a small crowd of onlookers which assisted with various tasks like finding fuel for the bikes and oil for me (my oil tank having mysteriously drained itself).

The time came and one by one we all started our bikes triumphantly, and with our documentation, passports and other equipment headed north off into Siberia.

Costs:
$700 approx for the bike shipment
$870 airline ticket
$5 for Russian Bike Registration
$40 for Bike Storage at Russian Customs (based on weight)
$50 for Taxi from Magadan airport to hotel

Documentation: Passports, Visas (pretty much every country needs a Russian Visa - check on the internet for companies that will help with the invitation), Bike Registrations and Title documents (important! these will be checked in minute detail), no drivers licenses were asked for but of course we had them.

Bribes / Gratuities: At no time were we asked for additional money outside of the due process. Any exchange of money was returned with multiple receipts which were all stamped and signed by multiple authorities. Arduous at best but very above board. A sign at the airport in English details that under no circumstances should gifts or money be exchanged (apart from vodka which is always the Russian exception)

Bikes: Make as small and light as you can - an extra mirror sticking out 5 cm may cost you $200.

Remove fuel and the battery must be packed separately. Wrapping a blanket around the easily damaged parts may save your bike in scratches or other harm. No need to say, but pack tools to dismantle and assemble the parts in these out of the way places. Our chain lube was confiscated at the airport and is not available in this part of Russia. This required us putting oil on the bike everyday which did not save our chains from the wear experienced from the dust and water you encounter in Siberia. Suggestion would be to try to pack with your bike or forgetting to tell security when checking in.

Culture: Goes without saying. Keep your cool, always smile and just be plain friendly. Respect that Russia is different and even if it is frustrating - be patient - it always works out in the end and will work faster if people like you. Being a biker, you will attract a lot of attention and even though this can be a pain, works in your favor by meeting the right people who can make things easy for you.

Above all - enjoy yourself and remember you're not behind a desk.