Just do something like the bloke in the video does. It doesn't have to be that close. I do mine whenever wheels are out by using the wheel spindle on two axle stands but you could use a couple of chairs. I've even used my panniers in the past.

For 'in the field' balancing get the spindle more or less horizontal and spin the wheel gently. Watch when it slows down and stops. If it just slowly comes to a stop, do nothing, that's close enough. If it oscillates back and forth before settling attach some kind of weight (temporarily with tape) directly opposite and repeat until the wheel stops more or less at random. I've used loads of stuff as weights over the years - nuts and bolts, old wheel weights from tyre depots etc. You'll need to fix whatever weight you end up with in place afterwards and how to do that safely may be something you'll have to think about. Proper wheel weights are best as you don't want them flying off at speed but they may not be easy to get.

As a rule of thumb with travel bikes (lowish speeds and spoked wheels) you won't notice anything under about 20gms at any speed. Over 50gms and increasingly over 60mph you will start to feel it - especially if you have different sized wheels with both of them over 50gms out as the vibration goes in and out of phase. I once had an unbalanced rim lock (over 100gms) on one wheel on a trip of a few hundred miles. It gave me double vision over about 60mph and the vibration eventually broke a silencer mounts. 100gms is a huge amount though, far more than you'd get from a tyre change.

If you're riding a sports bike don't mess around with diy. Get it done properly.