Go Back   Horizons Unlimited - The HUBB > Regional Forums > Northern and Central Asia
Northern and Central Asia Topics specific to Russia, Azerbaijan, Armenia, Georgia, Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Kyrgyzstan, Turkmenistan, Mongolia, China, Japan and Korea
Photo by Hendi Kaf, in Cambodia

I haven't been everywhere...
but it's on my list!


Photo by Hendi Kaf,
in Cambodia



Like Tree2Likes
  • 1 Post By Travelbug
  • 1 Post By Capo Sakke

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 15 Feb 2013
Banned
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Monaco
Posts: 336
Road of Bones in Winter

We just finished the Road of Bones in winter. Please find the trip report here:

Roadtrip Russia (5) Road of Bones in Winter at -50° to -62°C - Gentleman Adventurer

For those who followed the previous thread, I have to admit defeat:
it is currently not possible to drive the OLD section from Tomtor to Susuman in winter, without lots of preparation time (which we didn't have as you can see) and expedition gear. There is too much snow in the final Cherskyi mountain range and - contrary to the past, when this OLD road was the only road - it is not maintained in winter.

We talked to two local guides, one member of the police team who rescued the Norwegians (at km 80 aparently, not km 150), and even the governor of Sakha Republic, through private contacts.

Facit: it was a fascinating experience to drive 4.200 km in 3 days and nights.


Thereof 2.000 km constantly below - 50° C.

Our record was - 62° C at the petrol station in Kyubyume (Oymyakon District) where we had to pump petrol with our own hands.

Our car finally reached Magadan ... after a total of 20.000 km ... and 12 hours time difference from London.

P.S.: For the ill-wisher who hoped to see my car (wreck) on the road, I have installed a Gessler Hat (Albrecht Gessler - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia) at the petrol station in Kyubyume (Oymyakon). I know you will nod - if you've made it there ... ;-)


Last edited by Travelbug; 15 Feb 2013 at 13:12. Reason: Foto zoom
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 16 Feb 2013
colebatch's Avatar
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: London / Moscow
Posts: 1,913
Amazing experience ... lots of questions

How cold was it inside the car?

Did you make it to Tomtor then turn back or just went direct to Ust Nera from Kyubeme?

How did you deal with the cold?

Did you keep engine running continuously till Magadan?

Last edited by colebatch; 18 Feb 2013 at 17:56.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 17 Feb 2013
Banned
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Monaco
Posts: 336
Quote:
Originally Posted by colebatch View Post
Amazing experience ... lots of questions

How cold was it inside the car?

Did you make it to Tomtor then turn back or just went direct to Ust Nera from Kyubeme?

How did you deal with the cold?

Did you keep engine running continuously till Magadan?

And now there is someone on the HUBB who has driven to Tomtor in a car in Winter
We kept the car running continuously (including at the gas stations), except for 2-3 hours in Yakutsk, where it was parked in the heated hotel garage. The temperature inside the car was not a problem, although we gave most of the heater warmth to the motor, instead of the passenger cell. Only the feet, especially on the passenger side, tended to get cold, even in the -100° C Baffin boots. Was probably below zero there, add the inner moisture and immobility factor.

We wore our full thermo clothing inside the car, plus down sleeping bags as a seat-cover / wrap-around (a functioning seat-heater would have been very helpful).

It occasionally became a little colder, when the window needed to be opened, in order to smoke a cigar. A price we happily paid

One does adapt to the temperatures. Ust-Nera at -55° C felt colder than Kyubyume at -62° C, for whatever reason (moisture?). At -30° in Magadan sunshine we thought, hey this is getting warm.

In Kyubyume, late after midnight, we did NOT turn towards Tomtor (150 km), as we would have lost our escort friend, we didn't really have the time for a 300km+ detour, and we felt that we already had all we wanted (especially the really deep temperature experience). Driving to Tomtor is not a problem. In fact, one of our guide contacts (Slava. Excellent !) was there with a small tourist group that same day.

What I really regret is not having stopped to take the foto of the Oymyakon Rayon monument (it looked like a big thermometer (?)).

And with more time, I would have liked to explore the abandoned town of Kadykchan, seen the dung cobra snake monument in Yulba, plus looked for the "airplane-stuck-in-the-house" ...

Last small regret, I should have bought the better thermo clothing in Siberia.

Last edited by Travelbug; 19 Feb 2013 at 09:30.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 17 Feb 2013
*Touring Ted*'s Avatar
Contributing Member
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Wirral, England.
Posts: 5,673
Re: Road of Bones in Winter

Wow.. well done guys.
__________________
Did some trips.
Rode some bikes.
Fix them for a living.
Can't say anymore.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 17 Feb 2013
Contributing Member
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 374
Well I'll swallow some of my pride (can't eat it all ) well done. It sounds like a great adventure.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 18 Feb 2013
Banned
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Monaco
Posts: 336
Thank you gentlemen !
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 18 Feb 2013
Capo Sakke's Avatar
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Creator of Joroinen Community Finland / All Oceans
Posts: 219
Nice exploring and adventure
I might know how is it with those temperatures?
When riding Polar Butt 2011 I had -32C and with wind factor some -66C and it was cold
__________________
...You know it's a bit windy when you get passed by your own dust...
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 18 Feb 2013
colebatch's Avatar
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: London / Moscow
Posts: 1,913
Travelbug, did you view this before your trip? (from 12 months earlier)

I only discovered/saw it now for the first time, but seems to echo what you guys discovered and what I suspected.

Despite having a full support crew, the snow was too deep east of Tomtor and they had to turn back. What did surprise me was even where they had to turn back, there were still vehicle tracks in the snow going forward.

BBC - World's Most Dangerous Roads - Siberia - Road of Bones
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 19 Feb 2013
Banned
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Monaco
Posts: 336
Quote:
Originally Posted by colebatch View Post
Travelbug, did you view this before your trip? (from 12 months earlier)

I only discovered/saw it now for the first time, but seems to echo what you guys discovered and what I suspected.

Despite having a full support crew, the snow was too deep east of Tomtor and they had to turn back. What did surprise me was even where they had to turn back, there were still vehicle tracks in the snow going forward.

BBC - World's Most Dangerous Roads - Siberia - Road of Bones
Interesting video, colebatch. I didn't know it. They describe precisely the choice situation between old and new RoB in winter. I agree that the vehicle tracks east of Tomtor are "surprising". Even tempting ! I think that the really high snow starts later, outside Oymyakon Valley, on the other, eastern side of the Chersky Mountains, before Kadykchan. Problem 1 is ploughing through that snow and problem 2 is finding the way, for lack of markers. The much higher snow level behind Chersky Range is clearly visible on the new RoB too.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 19 Feb 2013
Banned
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Monaco
Posts: 336
Quote:
Originally Posted by Capo Sakke View Post
When riding Polar Butt 2011 I had -32C and with wind factor some -66C and it was cold
That must have been really tough. What did you and the local Finnish bikers wear in those conditions ? Are ski-doo overalls sufficiently warm and windproof ?
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 19 Feb 2013
colebatch's Avatar
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: London / Moscow
Posts: 1,913
Quote:
Originally Posted by Travelbug View Post
I agree that the vehicle tracks east of Tomtor are "surprising". Ev
I will try and check with sources, but the ongoing tracks looked so fresh that I wonder if they were made by a truck specifically to help the two guys and the tv crew less than 24 hrs earlier. It seems an unlikely coincidence that there was just one set of tracks in the road. No half snowed in tracks. No windblown tracks. Just one set of very fresh tracks. And that one set of tracks was so fresh as to look like it was made to guide them just a few hrs earlier.

When you learn how much was done by local behind the scenes guys for long way round when they were in the region, ypu get pretty sceptical of the integrity of anything seen on tv.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 26 Feb 2013
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: UK
Posts: 1,232
Quote:
Originally Posted by colebatch View Post
When you learn how much was done by local behind the scenes guys for long way round when they were in the region, ypu get pretty sceptical of the integrity of anything seen on tv.

really, like what?

never believe what I see on TV, seen too much rubbish about things I know about!
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 17 Nov 2014
Banned
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 971
Amazing story. Woulnd this have been the perfect bike?

Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 22 Nov 2014
Banned
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Monaco
Posts: 336
Looks perfect.


There seems to be particular interest from Brazil in cold Siberian experiences (?), as visible on http://www.beringiakam.ru/ (famous dog sled race in Kamchatka) where Brazil has the second-most foreign visitors, after the USA.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 22 Nov 2014
zandesiro's Avatar
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Polygyros GR
Posts: 558
I read it, and i get a "cold"
__________________
3mountainsadventure
Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 Registered Users and/or Members and 1 guests)
 

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Old Road of Bones in Winter Travelbug Northern and Central Asia 25 6 Feb 2013 03:53
BAM and the Road of Bones with Kudu Expeditions 2012 cgvaughan Ride Tales 7 25 Dec 2012 17:19
Road of Bones panman Route Planning 7 11 Dec 2012 12:11
London to Cape Town, November 2012 Tfoy97603 Travellers Seeking Travellers 56 4 Sep 2012 17:51
Wolf ticket 2012 - Riding the Road of Bones in Winter Dan Popescu Ride Tales 0 1 Aug 2012 15:53

 
 

Announcements

Thinking about traveling? Not sure about the whole thing? Watch the HU Achievable Dream Video Trailers and then get ALL the information you need to get inspired and learn how to travel anywhere in the world!

Have YOU ever wondered who has ridden around the world? We did too - and now here's the list of Circumnavigators!
Check it out now
, and add your information if we didn't find you.

Next HU Eventscalendar

25 years of HU Events
Be sure to join us for this huge milestone!

ALL Dates subject to change.

2025 Confirmed Events:

Virginia: April 24-27 2025
Queensland is back! May 2-4 2025
Germany Summer: May 29-June 1 2025
CanWest: July 10-13 2025
Switzerland: Date TBC
Ecuador: Date TBC
Romania: Date TBC
Austria: Sept. 11-14
California: September 18-21
France: September 19-21 2025
Germany Autumn: Oct 30-Nov 2 2025

Add yourself to the Updates List for each event!

Questions about an event? Ask here

See all event details

 
World's most listened to Adventure Motorbike Show!
Check the RAW segments; Grant, your HU host is on every month!
Episodes below to listen to while you, err, pretend to do something or other...

Adventurous Bikers – We've got all your Hygiene & Protection needs SORTED! Powdered Hair & Body Wash, Moisturising Cream Insect Repellent, and Moisturising Cream Sunscreen SPF50. ESSENTIAL | CONVENIENT | FUNCTIONAL.

2020 Edition of Chris Scott's Adventure Motorcycling Handbook.

2020 Edition of Chris Scott's Adventure Motorcycling Handbook.

"Ultimate global guide for red-blooded bikers planning overseas exploration. Covers choice & preparation of best bike, shipping overseas, baggage design, riding techniques, travel health, visas, documentation, safety and useful addresses." Recommended. (Grant)



Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance.

Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ combines into a single integrated program the best evacuation and rescue with the premier travel insurance coverages designed for adventurers.

Led by special operations veterans, Stanford Medicine affiliated physicians, paramedics and other travel experts, Ripcord is perfect for adventure seekers, climbers, skiers, sports enthusiasts, hunters, international travelers, humanitarian efforts, expeditions and more.

Ripcord travel protection is now available for ALL nationalities, and travel is covered on motorcycles of all sizes!


 

What others say about HU...

"This site is the BIBLE for international bike travelers." Greg, Australia

"Thank you! The web site, The travels, The insight, The inspiration, Everything, just thanks." Colin, UK

"My friend and I are planning a trip from Singapore to England... We found (the HU) site invaluable as an aid to planning and have based a lot of our purchases (bikes, riding gear, etc.) on what we have learned from this site." Phil, Australia

"I for one always had an adventurous spirit, but you and Susan lit the fire for my trip and I'll be forever grateful for what you two do to inspire others to just do it." Brent, USA

"Your website is a mecca of valuable information and the (video) series is informative, entertaining, and inspiring!" Jennifer, Canada

"Your worldwide organisation and events are the Go To places to for all serious touring and aspiring touring bikers." Trevor, South Africa

"This is the answer to all my questions." Haydn, Australia

"Keep going the excellent work you are doing for Horizons Unlimited - I love it!" Thomas, Germany

Lots more comments here!



Five books by Graham Field!

Diaries of a compulsive traveller
by Graham Field
Book, eBook, Audiobook

"A compelling, honest, inspiring and entertaining writing style with a built-in feel-good factor" Get them NOW from the authors' website and Amazon.com, Amazon.ca, Amazon.co.uk.



Back Road Map Books and Backroad GPS Maps for all of Canada - a must have!

New to Horizons Unlimited?

New to motorcycle travelling? New to the HU site? Confused? Too many options? It's really very simple - just 4 easy steps!

Horizons Unlimited was founded in 1997 by Grant and Susan Johnson following their journey around the world on a BMW R80G/S.

Susan and Grant Johnson Read more about Grant & Susan's story

Membership - help keep us going!

Horizons Unlimited is not a big multi-national company, just two people who love motorcycle travel and have grown what started as a hobby in 1997 into a full time job (usually 8-10 hours per day and 7 days a week) and a labour of love. To keep it going and a roof over our heads, we run events all over the world with the help of volunteers; we sell inspirational and informative DVDs; we have a few selected advertisers; and we make a small amount from memberships.

You don't have to be a Member to come to an HU meeting, access the website, or ask questions on the HUBB. What you get for your membership contribution is our sincere gratitude, good karma and knowing that you're helping to keep the motorcycle travel dream alive. Contributing Members and Gold Members do get additional features on the HUBB. Here's a list of all the Member benefits on the HUBB.




All times are GMT +1. The time now is 05:19.