I just got back from a 36 day trip from Lagos, Nigeria to Europe and back.

The trip afforded me the opportunity to see the different cultures, traditions and ways of the people on my route.....in the different countries.

I didnt really have a "fixed" plan and i determined that I will not allow myself get stressed over any situation I come across.

On my return route, I was to go through Senegal into Mali. I had determined that I will pass through the dreaded "ROSSO" border long before hand because I simply could not imagine what would happen that I have not sen before. In my opinion, the worst border I have ever crossed was into Ghana from Togo, the AFLAO border, where I had spent 8 hours doing paper work!

I had determined the night before that the best was was to, as we say in Nigeria "follow who knows the road". I will get one of the "touts" and have him do all the leg work.

From my ride report:

"I want to be at the border as it opens (so as to have enough time should any eventualities arise) so i am out at 630am! Nice cool ride out of Nouakchott to the border and I am the border port gate at 820am! Locate Dauda (also David)! (0022246476883) He is my designated passage agent (or facilitator)! How did I get him? I turned to all the "touts" and asked them, who speaks english...I knew that would help shortlist them...he spoke and I took him on.

Dauda he explains all that I need to pay.

On Mauritanian Side: Ferry cost 5000, passport 1500, custom 4000, tax communal 2000, embarkment with police 2000, police 1500. Total 15500 (Mauri money)!

On Senegalese side 26000cfa, lesse passé 2500, police 3000, tax 3000, custom station 10000, port sortie 5000

I pay and go chat with some of the locals. about 20 minutes later, I am on the ferry on my way to Senegal. All the while I am wondering why people will go through 60km+ of piste tracks plus over 3 hours, risk damage to their bikes as well as hurting themselves just to save less than 70Euro....which EVERYONE pays to use this border!

I had some issues which cost me an extra 10,000cfas to solve on account of my dual nationality status besides which I am confident it would have taken me about 2 hours to cross and be out on the streets in Senegal.

By the way, guys, I can say this about the borders in West Africa. Every southern border in the following countries, Ivory Coast, Senegal, Mali, Ghana, Togo, Benin, Nigeria has, to some degree, officers demanding some money under one pretense or the other. I have spent 2 hours at a border because i refused to pay 1000cfa. Eventually, I did pay.

I have chosen to look at this situations with a different philosophy;
1. When in Rome, do as the Romans....save yourself the hassle, stress and mental torture.
2. Do not compare what happens at some other places to what happens here. Its different and expect the difference.Think of the money as "toll" if it makes you feel better.
3. Take things easy and don't get all worked up over nothing. 3 hours of your life on a piste is worth a lot more than 100Euro to cross Rosso!

Finally, I wish you all the best and if anyone would like to have specifics, I welcome PMs.

Mauritanian Side.....Very organized and orderly.


On board the ferry!


The Senegalese side! Easy peasy lemon squeezy!!!


The prize!!!