Crikey, we were two up in Lima going North in September, then back South in December and didnt have any issues with access. In both cases we rode on the 4 lane road as its the easiest and only once had to use the "dumb gringo" excusse.....it works wonders. Yes the traffic can be tough but thats half the enjoyment, lane splitting and dogging cars. We stayed in Mira and Biranco and rode all around......just go and ride and if the police stop you then just smile.....its all part of it
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