Hi there,

Thought I would share my recent experience on The Independence sail boat from Panama to Coulmbia. This boat also takes motor bikes on deck.
I'm traveling with my Land Rover, Defender, which went in a container.

The independence Experience
5 Days sailing via the San Bas Islands from Panama to Columbia

So with my Land Rover safely packed into a container bound for Cartagena, Columbia. I just had to get myself there in time to meet it.

I had found a sail boat, The independence, leaving on the Thursday via Captain Jacks Voyages. An agent for 6 or so sail boats running the Panama Columbia route via the San Bas islands. It suited me well as it left the day after I was scheduled to load the Land Rover into a container and it arrived around the same time as the container ship. Plus, I would get to check out the tropical paradise that is the San Bas islands along the way. Perfect I thought.

I initially booked before Christmas for the 10th Jan 2013 sailing. So a couple of days before I e-mailed to check everything was ok with the sail boat and book myself a night in the hostel at Portobello, the place the Captain Jacks website said the boats sailed from. At 11:00 (2 days later) whilst loading the Land Rover into the container I get a message saying that the boat is not leaving from Portabelo but a place called Carti*. So I changed my plans and returned to Panama city to find a hostel for the night and arrange transport for the following day. On arriving at the hostel, I found they where full. But they kindly said I could sleep in the movie theatre. Which had bed like benches. As the transport was leaving from there at 05:30 in the morning, I figured it was the best option for maximum sleep time.
Transport arrived in the form of a Nissian 4x4 and our luggage for 9 people was loaded onto a already half broken roof rack. We then where driven across the city to the tour agents office to pay for the transport out to Carti. Plus a chance to stop up of munchies at the super market. With the chaos in the office it was 09:30 by the time we were all paid, stocked up and on our way. 3.5 hours in a hot 4x4 down bumpy roads saw us at the tiny village of Carti. Where boat launches where waiting to ferry us out to our respective sail boats. After standing around for about an hour we were finally directed to a boat and loaded our gear. It was then a gentle ride down the river and then out into the bay to meet our sail boat.

On first sight of our sail boat independence, she looked impressive. With her vivid blue and white colour scheme and high twin masts. We drew along side and unloaded us and the baggage on to the narrow walkway. We where all assembled on the top deck, to meet the captain and be given the welcome/ do's and don'ts aboard talk. In this message it was mentioned that there were two 8 person life rafts in case of emergency. I quickly counted heads and there where 20 guests, plus crew of 5. Hmmm not a good start. We then motored for 2 hours out to our first set of San Bas tropical islands, where we would moor for the night. Along the way we were allocated our bunks/rooms. It quickly became apparent that there were not enough beds for everyone. Leaving 4 people to sleep out on deck, on the sun deck mattresses. As it turned out this was not all bad for the people sleeping on deck. As after the first night aboard, a lot of people complained the cabins where too hot, with no fresh air. One, guy had condensation forming on the bunk above him, and dripping on him in the night. He later slept on the wooden floor of my cabin/area for the last two nights of the voyage. Luckily for me, I was given a bunk up the front of the boat, next to a door to the deck, with plenty of fresh air. But I was in the storm bridge, which was obviously now used as tool and spare parts store. When the guys who slept on deck, asked the Captain for a discount the following morning. The replay they got was, they could get off on to any of the islands and find there own way back, if they didn't like it. So that set the tone of the trip.

On the bright side. The San Bas islands were the little tropical paradise islands we had all read about. With local fisherman living in wooden huts, clinging to the little bits of dry land that existed.
Our mooring locations for the first two days were great. With islands with in swimming distance, to wander and explore.
So to our little side adventure. The Captain announces he is going to swim to a near by Wreck and who any of us like to come along and check it out. Being fond of wreck driving and signed up and got a snorkel and mask. In the end there was the Captain and 3 of us initially who set off. Baring in mind we had already experience the strong current, when trying to swim back to the boat from the island. I ask the Captain were the wreck is. He points to a island directly to our stern, which means the swim back is dead against the fast current. Seeing the island, I figure if we can't make the swim back, we will just sit on the island to be picked up by the little tender boat. So off we go! Sure enough we make fast progress to the island and on reaching it the Captain decides the current is too strong to head on any further to the wreck. He then says, as hes the only one with flin's (flippers). That he will swim back to the boat and tell them to send the tender for us. OK, so we (now 4) as there was one late person to join us, wade ashore to the island. The Captain initially makes good progress, but half way slows, and is not making any more headway. I watch him for 5 minutes, and he is still now further forward. At which point I'm worrying he might not make it back to the boat at all. Seeing as he 60ish and no spring chicken. I quickly assess the situation. The currents are strongest for the first 50m from the island, were the water is forced over the shallow reef. Further out in the deep water they are slower, which I figure I can still make headway against at a fast cruise pace. If I can't make it, I can always float back in the current to the island. So I tell the others my plan and set off at a sprint pace to break through the area of fastest current. Sure enough as I swim out into the deeper water so the current eases, but not as much as I was hoping for. I then had to still swim hard for the remaining 150m battling the head on current back to the boat. During which I pass the Captain some 50m to my left and reach the boat before him. On dragging myself panting up the ladder. I call to the second mate (his wife, who is 23 years old) that the Captain is strungling and we need to launch the small boat to pick him up and the other stranded on the island. She say “I can lower the boat with out the Captains say so” I say “ Well, the Captain might just drown, your the most senior person left on the boat, make the decision”. She waits until the Captain finally reaches the side of the boat. I take his fin's from him so he can climb the ladder. At which point he asks why I didn't tell them to launch the boat. I said, “I did!” It turns out he got cramp in his leg half way across. So eventually the small boat get launch and the other rescued from the island. So I say this to you Michael (The Captain). Watch your back, because I'm not sure she will be coming to your rescue any time soon, if you have another miss-adventure.

So to the last part of our sea fairing adventure. The 30+ hour crossing from the San Bas islands to Cartagena, Columbia. As we turn and leave the shelter of the San Bas islands, so the slay ride begins. The waves are short and steep in the shallow waters just off the island chain. Which pitched and through the boat around, through some interesting angels. So it was not long before most of us we feeling green around the gills. So more that others. For me, as long as I was in the fresh air and could see the horizon, I could keep things down to a mild sick feeling. For some others, feeding the fish was there new hobby.
As we got out into deeper waters, so things settled down. And with a change in wind direction aloud us to set the main sail in addition to the engine, to make good head way. However it was still big seas with a howling wind, and several 6m+ waves slammed into our side and flooded the top deck area. Where most of us were sitting. Some now drier than others. Other large waves just had us grabbing anything solid to stop us falling off our chairs. Also, remember the 4 motor bikes we had on deck were also getting thrown around and covered in salt water. It was a long night, and we were all glad to see the lights of Cartagena come into view and to reach the calm waters of the port by around midnight. Where I think most people passed out rather than fell asleep.

A quick word on food and drink. The food was great, and there was plenty of it. Including a surprise crab and lobster lunch, tanks to the local fisherman. Drink however was not good. The only drinking water on board, was treated sea water. Which still had too much salt in it to be nice. This didn't sit well in the stomach either, with the pitching seas.

So all in all was it a 500 US dollar voyage. No, is the simple answer. As whilst the boat was sound and sea worthy. Lots of other points fall short. From lack of fresh drinking water to not enough beds, to conditions below decks being horrid to try and sleep in. An experience it was and the San Bas islands are beautiful. But I have had better expediencies on other boats.

As for the motor bikes. They cost an extra 400 US dollars to bring along. Are stored on deck and are lashed against the railing. Open to all sea spray that makes it to the top deck. In our case 3 x 6m waves which broke over them. Add top this so novel loading and unloading. Where even a plank to get the bike out the small boat to dry land would have been a useful asset. As opposed to 4 people dragging and lifting it. I won't put my motor bike on board, put it that way.

*The reason for the change of location, which Captain Jacks had know about for ages but failed to pass along. Is that Panamanian Customs have decided they what there cut of the of the traffic sailing to and from Columbia. So they are now asking 120USD to stamp out each passengers passport. So the boats are now sailing from Carti. A small village inside the antonymous San Bas region.

Hope you find this useful, David

More info at:
Walkabout2408.com

www.walkabout2408.com - The adventure so far... - Page 4 - Expedition Portal