Hi edwardbgill!
Conditions are much better compare to 2015. There is not police escorts in Gilgit Baltistan anymore (Some checkpoints). Gilgit city to khunjerab pass there is no check points as well where foreigner travellers need to register themselves.
There are two routes from to reach between china to Indian border. Islamabad to Gilgit Route 1) Besham via Karakoram Highway, Route 2) Naran via Babusar top.
Route 1 is still have escorts between Besham and Chilas which is just one day ride almost 220km.
Route 2 is more chill no escorts but because its high attitude pass (babusar), this route just stay open between Mid June to October End.
Hope My answer help you plan your trip
Best Regards,
Shah
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